Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu (23 November 2021)

Date of Auction: 23rd November 2021

Sold for £42,000

Estimate: £12,000 - £15,000

An aquamarine line bracelet by Cartier, circa 1940, channel set with a row of 25 step-cut aquamarines, mounted in platinum, signed ‘Cartier’, numbered ‘9781’, total weight approximately 45 carats, length 17.5cm. £12,000-£15,000


From 1932 onwards much of Cartier's aquamarine jewellery was produced by the company’s London branch. During the economic depression of this period Cartier started using semi-precious stones such as aquamarine and topaz as a more affordable alternative for their clientele. Demand was so high for these gem-set creations that correspondence between the London and New York offices in 1936 refers to long delays in commissions owing to ‘the difficulty of obtaining a supply of good colour aquamarines.’ Although economic difficulties also gave rise to a decline in the use of platinum during this period, Cartier continued to use the metal for their finer creations. Platinum settings in particular were known to enhance coloured gemstones of exceptional quality and aquamarines, with their flawless clarity, were often reserved for such pieces. The simple and refined design of a line bracelet, as shown with this lot, enabled Cartier to showcase their finesse through simple homogeneity of colour and clarity.